
Grouse Rillettes with Boreal Gin and Fire Morels
Honor the whole harvest. Legs, less photogenic breasts — all of it goes in.
Prep1 h
Cook6 h
Yield20 to 30 servings of spread
LevelIntermediate
Ingredients
Meat
- Grouse legs, 20 to 30 legs depending on the season25
- Grouse breasts, 5 to 6 breasts, ideally the less photogenic ones6
- Pork tenderloin, optional, for extra silkiness1 lb
Marinade
- Garlic clove, minced4
- Juniper berries, crushed with the side of a knife, 2 teaspoons2 tsp
- Fresh thyme, 2 tablespoons, or several sprigs2 tbsp
- Bay leaf3
- Ground black pepper, 2 teaspoons2 tsp
- Salt, generously, will be rinsed off after 24 hours¼ cup
Cooking
- Chicken stock, about 1.5 L: homemade grouse stock ideal, otherwise chicken stock or water6¼ cups
Binding (per kg of shredded meat)
- Duck fat, 40% of the shredded meat weight14⅛ oz
- Fine salt, adjust to taste after assembly10 g
- Gin, 125 to 200 ml of boreal gin, like Ungava or Pied Mort⅔ cup
Aromatic garnish
- Dried fire morels, rehydrate in warm water for 30 minutes1.1 oz
Steps
- 01In a large bowl or heavy plastic bag, coat the legs, breasts and pork tenderloin with the salt, minced garlic, crushed juniper, thyme, bay leaves and black pepper. Toss to distribute everything evenly. Cover and refrigerate for a full 24 hours. Don't skip this step: this is what seasons the meat all the way through.
- 02The next day, thoroughly rinse all the meat under cold water to remove excess salt and aromatics. Pat dry carefully with paper towels. Transfer the meat to a slow cooker set to Low, or to a cast-iron Dutch oven in a 250°F (120°C) oven.
- 03Fully cover the meat with poultry stock (or homemade grouse stock if you have it). Cook over very low heat for 5 to 6 hours, never boiling. The meat is ready when it slides off the bones effortlessly with a fork.
- 04While the meat cooks, rehydrate the dried morels in warm water for 30 minutes. Once softened, chop them coarsely. Filter the soaking liquid through a coffee filter and save it. In a skillet, sauté the morels in a spoonful of duck fat over medium-high heat until well browned. Let them cool completely in the refrigerator. They need to be cold when added at the end.
- 05Remove the meat from the broth. Filter and save the broth. Shred the meat with a fork while it's still warm. Plan for two or three passes: there are lots of small bones, cartilage and tendons to pick out, especially from the grouse legs. Be patient, this is what makes the difference. Weigh the net shredded meat: that number determines your fat and salt ratios.
- 06Melt a spoonful of duck fat in the bottom of a large pot over low heat. Add the shredded meat and the fine salt (10 g per kg of meat). Slowly incorporate the rest of the duck fat (400 g per kg) while stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon for 10 to 15 minutes. You'll see the texture shift, becoming smooth and glossy. Then add the boreal gin, the filtered morel soaking liquid and one or two ladles of the reserved broth. Keep stirring vigorously for 5 more minutes so the meat absorbs the liquids. The final texture should be like a thick porridge.
- 07Pull from the heat. Fold the cooled morels in gently with a spoon, taking care not to crush them. Taste: while hot, it should taste slightly over-salted. That's normal — the salt will mellow as it cools and matures. If needed, add 5 more grams of salt per kg.
- 08Transfer the rillettes to loaf pans, terrines or Mason jars. Press down firmly with the back of a spoon to chase out air pockets. Smooth the top, then seal each container with a thin layer of melted, cooled-but-still-liquid duck fat. This layer is what preserves and protects from bacteria.
- 09Mature in the refrigerator for at least 3 to 4 days before serving. This rest is what allows the gin, salt and woody morel notes to fuse. Without it, you're just eating shredded meat in fat. With it, you're eating rillettes. Keeps 2 weeks in the fridge once sealed, or several months if you process them in Mason jars.
- 10Take the rillettes out of the fridge 30 minutes before serving so they soften. Serve at room temperature, spread thick on good toasted country bread, with sour pickles, pickled red onions, a dab of strong mustard and a glass of brown beer. That's it. Don't overcomplicate a good thing.