Plate of cream fettuccine with Italian venison meatballs, sautéed fennel, spinach and crumbled Mr Émile goat cheese

Mr Émile and His Italian Deer: Fennel and Pastis Meatballs

Local deer, treated like it came from Tuscany.

Prep30 min
Cook45 min
Yield4 to 6 servings
LevelIntermediate

Ingredients

Meatballs

  • Ground venison, 1 kg2.2 lb
  • 85% fat ground pork1⅓ lb
  • Garlic clove, minced, 2 tablespoons (about 6 cloves)2 tbsp
  • Pimentón de la Vera, 2 tablespoons, the real Spanish kind, not grocery paprika2 tbsp
  • Fennel seeds, roasted, half whole half ground, 2 teaspoons2 tsp
  • Salt16 g
  • Ground black pepper16 g
  • Cayenne pepper, 1 1/2 teaspoons1.4 tsp
  • Italian parsley, chopped, 2 tablespoons2 tbsp
  • Red wine, Shiraz with aniseed notes, 2 tablespoons2 tbsp

Pasta and sauce

  • Fettuccine, fresh preferred1⅛ lb
  • Fresh fennel bulb, finely shaved on a mandoline1
  • Fresh spinach, 1 to 2 cups2 cups
  • 15% cream, 1/2 cup, cooking cream½ cup
  • Montréal Rosemont pastis, 1 tablespoon, from Cirka distillery1 tbsp
  • Mr Émile goat cheese, half a Mr Émile, from Ferme Ruban Bleu4¼ oz

Cooking

  • Butter, or duck fat, for cooking
  • Fir tips, to taste, for finishing (optional)

Steps

  1. 01
    In a small dry pan over medium heat, roast the fennel seeds for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring, until they release their aroma and lightly brown. Remove from heat. Crush half with a mortar or the flat of a knife, keep the other half whole. This texture contrast makes the difference in the meatballs.
  2. 02
    In a large bowl, combine the ground venison, ground pork, minced garlic, pimentón, fennel seeds (half ground, half whole), salt, pepper, cayenne, chopped Italian parsley and Shiraz red wine. Mix by hand for 2 minutes until everything is well incorporated without compacting the meat. The mixture should stay airy.
  3. 03
    Form meatballs 3 to 4 cm in diameter (golf ball size) — about 20 to 25 meatballs. In a large heavy-bottomed skillet with a little butter or duck fat over medium-high heat, sear the meatballs 6 to 8 minutes, turning regularly, until well browned on all sides. Set aside on a plate.
  4. 04
    In the same skillet, add a knob of butter. Wilt the spinach over medium-low heat for 2 minutes, just until soft without browning. Lightly salt. Set aside in a separate bowl.
  5. 05
    Mandoline-slice the fennel bulb into 2 to 3 mm thick ribbons. In the same skillet, melt another knob of butter. Sauté the fennel ribbons over medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until translucent and lightly caramelized at the edges.
  6. 06
    While the fennel cooks, drop the fettuccine into a large pot of salted boiling water. Cook per package instructions, 3 to 4 minutes for fresh, 8 to 10 minutes for dry. Reserve a cup of pasta water before draining.
  7. 07
    Return the meatballs and spinach to the skillet with the fennel. Pour in the Rosemont pastis and flambé: turn off the vent hood, tilt the pan toward the burner flame or light with a long lighter. The flame self-extinguishes in 10 to 15 seconds once the alcohol burns off. Add the 15% cream and reduce 2 to 3 minutes until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
  8. 08
    Drain the fettuccine and add directly to the skillet with the sauce. Crumble the Mr Émile coarsely over the top and toss gently so the cheese begins to melt into the hot sauce. If the sauce is too thick, loosen with a splash of reserved pasta water.
  9. 09
    Plate in warm shallow bowls. Scatter with fir tips if you have them, and a final crumble of Mr Émile. Serve immediately — fettuccine cools fast and the cheese keeps melting.